HOOF
WOOL PRODUCTION
According to a research conducted by beef and lamb NZ, “In 2014, New Zealand was the fourth largest producer of wool and produced 10.5% of world production”. New Zealand produces over 600 million pounds (approximately) of greasy wool every year. This wool includes shorn wool, slipe wool, scoured wool (wool that has been washed and cleaned) and some wool on sheepskins. “Around 97% of this wool from New Zealand, is exported mainly to Britain, France and the United states of America. New Zealand ranks first in the world as a producer of crossbred wool, second to Australia as an exporter or wool and third to Australia and the Soviet Union for the total wool produced”, (Te Ara – The Encyclopedia of New Zealand, 23rd April 2009).
video clip showing wool production process
WOOL PROCESSING
Wool processing is a multi-step procedure to turn raw wool into finished product. Wool is largely processed outside New Zealand. “About 80% is scoured in NZ to remove grease, dirt and other contamination. Nearly 70% is exported raw or scoured, to be spun and woven overseas. Of the 30% processed in NZ, just over half is made into carpets or rugs", (Alistair Nicol and Caroline Saunders. 'Meat and wool - Wool production and processing', Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand, updated 13-Jul-12 ).
Wool Proccessing SuMMARY
1. FLEECE
The key properties that determine the use of wool are its diameter and the crimp. Fine merino wool to much coarser crossbred wool is produced by different breeds of sheep. Coarser diameter wool is used for heavy apparel and carpets whereas finer wool is used for high quality apparel.
2. CARDING
“The wool is first passed through a carding step, in which a series of rotating, toothed rollers open the tufts of wool, separate the fibres and mix them thoroughly. Some fibres break in carding, which is the most critical textile process. Fibre breakage during the carding process is minimised by spraying the wool with a lubricating mixture of water and oil prior to this process. The carded wool is removed for the next stage as a thick ribbon of fibre, called a sliver”, (TANGLING WITH WOOL – WOOLLEN OR WORSTED? , Source: WRONZ Developments 2000 ).
3. WORSTED PROCESSING
The worsted system has the most steps in its processing sequence, and better quality wools are generally required. Fine and medium wools are favoured for fine yarns.
4. SCOURING
The scouring process is essential, because the sheep picks up contaminants such as dirt and also releases sweat and grease which is cleaned during this process. To remove all the grease and dirt there is a high production washing process by a wool scour. "There are wool scours scattered around New Zealand, and they handle perhaps about 5 tonnes of wool an hour in their production to produce clean scoured wool – white, free of contaminants, ready for processing. Wool can be dyed into different colours at any stage of the processing", (Dr Errol Wood, 31 May 2010, The University of Waikato).
5. GILLING
Gilling is a process of aligning the wool fibres so they are parallel to one another. This is done using a coarse comb. At this stage, the sliver still contains particles of vegetable matter as well as short fibres.
6. DRAFTING
The drafting process enables the fibres from a very thick strand to slip apart and become finer.
7. SPINNING AND TWISTING
The last step in producing yarn is spinning, and the ring-spinning frame does that very efficiently. The strand is taken, it’s twisted, and it is drafted into a thinner entity and wound onto a package at high speed. Then you end up with what is called a singles yarn.
8.FABRIC FORMATION
Yarn may go in a number of directions. It may be a coarse yarn which is used to make carpets. It could be a finer yarn going into upholstery or a really fine yarn going into high-quality apparel, which may be woven or knitted. There’s a number of different possibilities depending on the raw material you’ve started with, the nature of the fibre, the type of yarn you made depending on whether it’s woollen or worsted and the type of end product that’s required.
Roma Nory
REFERENCES:
Video: Wool Production process, The Woolmark Company
URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yafkK0uk65U
Wool Processing Sheep to Sock
URL: http://www.ranching-with-sheep.com/wool-processing.html
Source: WRONZ Developments 2000, TANGLING WITH WOOL – WOOLLEN OR WORSTED?
URL: www.alpaca.org.nz/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx?ID=132767
Alistair Nicol and Caroline Saunders. 'Meat and wool - Wool production and processing', Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand, updated 13-Jul-12
URL: http://www.TeAra.govt.nz/en/meat-and-wool/page-6
Biotechnology Learning Hub: Wool processing: fleece to fabric, (2010-2015, The University of Waikato)
URL: http://biotechlearn.org.nz/focus_stories/wool_innovations/wool_processing_fleece_to_fabric